A vision in black, cream and white, the latest collection from Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester veered from her previous season’s courting of the romantic poet to a modern urban setting. Using great amounts of leather, Demeulemeester puts the edge back in her designs, although the collection’s airy split-hem robes do have a sensitive zen quality to them. Halter-top waistcoats make a sharp impression, while a reworked cummerbund belt from fall 2009 makes a pleasant appearance. From the knits’ subtle sequin embellishments to the high profile sneakers, luster and sheen become a welcomed attribute of the collection, while headbands and hooded outerwear add a modern charm, while still adhering to Ann Demeuelmeester’s favored aesthetic. Like all her previous collections, Demeulemeester “cuts soul” into her garments, creating with a purpose–not only new garments to fill a void, but garments with significance and a story important to their wearer.
