Haider Ackermann arrives at Tom Ford’s signature language for spring-summer 2027, then gives its impeccably dressed man a taste for the peculiar. The broad lapels, open shirts, glossy leather, and roses tucked at the breast pocket suggest glamour, but Ackermann seems more interested in disturbing that polished image than completing it.
A crewneck sweater accompanies pink briefs; a double-breasted jacket and briefcase lend businesslike purpose to denim shorts scarcely longer than underwear. Wearing the latter, Darek Wierzycki, with swept-back hair and a pronounced mustache, even brings Ackermann himself to mind. It is an amusingly personal presence in a wardrobe negotiating how much of its founder to retain.
There are persuasive, less conspicuous propositions, too, including olive tailoring and a short-sleeved lavender shirt tucked into dark trousers. These give the more exposed looks something to disrupt, making the respectable wardrobe an accomplice to its own undoing. In his collection notes, Ackermann writes of “the risk of being free.” Here, that freedom includes looking a little unconventional, even when every piece suggests you could afford to look immaculate.
Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2027 Collection
