Burberry

Burberry was founded in 1856 when 21-year-old Thomas Burberry, a former draper’s apprentice, opened his own store in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England. The proposition was practical from the start, clothing designed to protect people from the British weather.

In 1879, Burberry introduced gabardine, a hardwearing, water-resistant yet breathable fabric, in which the yarn is waterproofed before weaving. In 1891, Burberry opened a shop in the Haymarket, London. The fabric drew early notice in the trade press, where the new fabric was described as being resistant to hot and cold winds, rains and thorns, and would make an ideal weatherproof coat.

Menswear sits at the center of the house, and the trench coat is its defining garment. In 1900, Burberry was approached by the British War Office, and was asked to design a coat to replace the military’s current heavy coats. This request led Burberry to create the gabardine trench coat, a lightweight cotton raincoat with a deep back yoke, epaulets, buckled cuff straps, a button-down storm flap on one shoulder, storm pockets, and D-ring belt clasps for the attachment of military gear.

The Tielocken preceded it, patented and closing with a single strap and buckle fastening, with only a button at the collar. The check lining followed in the 1920s and became a marker of British outerwear alongside Aquascutum and Mackintosh. Recognition came in royal form, with Burberry granted a Royal Warrant as an Outfitter by HM King Charles III.

The business shifted from family firm to listed company over the late 20th century. In 1997, GUS director Victor Barnett became chairman of Burberry, hiring Rose Marie Bravo to execute a corporate reorganization and restoration of the brand as a luxury fashion house, leading the company up to its successful IPO in 2001.

Christopher Bailey joined as creative director in May 2001, took on chief creative officer and CEO roles in 2014, and stepped down by the end of 2018. The brand also navigated a reputational dip, becoming associated between 2001 and 2005 with chav and football hooligan culture, attributed to lower priced products, the proliferation of counterfeit goods adopting Burberry’s trademark check pattern, and adoption by celebrities prominently identified with chav culture.

Angela Ahrendts and Bailey turned that reputation around by removing the check from all but 10% of products, taking fragrance and beauty licenses back in-house and buying out the Spanish franchise that was worth 20% of group revenues.

Today the house dresses a global customer base across outerwear, ready-to-wear and accessories, with its current phase under CEO Joshua Schulman and Creative Director Daniel Lee focused on reclaiming exclusivity and elevated craftsmanship.