Anthony Vaccarello’s spring-summer 2026 collection for Saint Laurent positioned itself somewhere between Paris formality and Fire Island sensuality. It extended the idea that refinement and heat can occupy the same frame without apology.
Proportions did most of the talking. Shoulders stretched wide with architectural clarity. Trousers were full, pleated, and high at the waist. Shirts, often sheer, were tucked cleanly.
The garments followed a logic that juxtaposed the idea of tailoring with softness. Jackets carried weight. Belts cinched with purpose. The trench appeared repeatedly, worn open and tied, signaling presence.
The palette was sunbaked and saturated. Terracotta, saffron, fig, and olive hues decorated the collection. One number featured a sharp orange shirt with dark brown shorts, a pairing that read both practical and charged.
Another Saint Laurent ensemble arrived in monochrome plum, the shirt and trousers cut from the same high-gloss cloth, styled with brown dress shoes and tinted glasses.
Transparency appeared in the fabrics. Sensuality was prescribed. Sheer shirts, belted coats, and tailored trousers were styled with a sharp, deliberate hand. The shortest shorts were cut with nerve, carrying the same cool composure that ran through the rest of the collection.
This season, Vaccarello worked within his own rules, adjusting the dial rather than replacing the channel. The result was a collection that held its shape and kept its distance yet invited attention without asking for it. Somewhere between the grid of the city and the salt of the sea, Saint Laurent found its equilibrium.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2026 Collection
