Burberry

Burberry was founded in 1856. Thomas Burberry, a 21-year-old former draper’s apprentice, opened his own store in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England. The proposition was practical from the start. The clothing was designed to protect people from the British weather.

In 1879, Burberry introduced gabardine, a hardwearing, water-resistant, and breathable fabric in which the yarn is waterproofed before weaving. In 1891, Burberry opened a shop in the Haymarket, London. The trade press noticed early, describing the new fabric as resistant to hot and cold winds, rain, and thorns, and ideal for a weatherproof coat.

Menswear sits at the center of the house, and the trench coat is its defining garment. In 1901, Burberry submitted designs for a new lightweight raincoat to the British War Office. The definitive trench coat took shape during World War I, adapted and optimized for functional use in the trenches between 1914 and 1918.

The final garment is a lightweight cotton raincoat with a deep back yoke, epaulets, buckled cuff straps, a button-down storm flap on one shoulder, storm pockets, and D-ring belt clasps for the attachment of military gear.

The Tielocken preceded it. The earlier model was patented and closed with a single strap and buckle fastening, plus a button at the collar. The check lining followed in the 1920s and became a marker of British outerwear alongside Aquascutum and Mackintosh.

Recognition came in royal form across generations, with Burberry granted Royal Warrants by HM Queen Elizabeth II in 1955 and HRH The Prince of Wales in 1989. Those warrants became void after the Queen’s passing, and in May 2024, HM King Charles III officially reinstated the relationship with a new Royal Warrant.

The business shifted from family firm to listed company over the late 20th century. In 1997, GUS director Victor Barnett became chairman of Burberry. He hired Rose Marie Bravo to execute a corporate reorganization and restore the brand as a luxury fashion house. The work led the company to its successful IPO in 2001.

Christopher Bailey joined as creative director in May 2001 and took on chief creative officer and CEO roles in 2014. He stepped down from his executive duties and the runway in March 2018, then remained as a consultant through the transition until the end of December 2018. During his tenure, the brand navigated a reputational dip.

Between 2001 and 2005, Burberry became associated with chav and football hooligan culture, attributed to lower priced products, the proliferation of counterfeit goods using the trademark check pattern, and adoption by celebrities prominently identified with chav culture.

Angela Ahrendts and Bailey turned that reputation around. They removed the check from all but 10% of products, took fragrance and beauty licenses back in-house, and bought out the Spanish franchise that was worth 20% of group revenues.

Riccardo Tisci succeeded Bailey as chief creative officer in March 2018. His debut collection arrived that September, paired with a new TB monogram designed with Peter Saville and a sharper crossover between streetwear and tailoring. He exited the house in September 2022.

Today the house dresses a global customer base across outerwear, ready-to-wear, and accessories. Its current phase falls under CEO Joshua Schulman and Creative Director Daniel Lee, focused on reclaiming exclusivity and elevated craftsmanship.