The New Suit–Looking to the 1940’s for inspiration, Korean designer Juun.J was most moved by Akira Kurosawa’s Japanese film Drunken Angel. Following the exploits of a post-World War II gangster, the premise provided an easy sartorial reference for Juun.J who based most of spring/summer 2013’s collection around shapely silhouettes. Taking a militaristic stance with monotone ensembles, fitted jackets and voluminous trousers blended together as one piece. Almost like a uniform, the looks were strong, cohesive and line based with pinched shoulders and the occasional epaulette for emphasis. Reinterpreting the field jacket as a lightweight neutral piece with an exaggerated large shape, outerwear packed a punch, concluding in a dramatic trench cinched at the waist. Creating a modern moment, towards the collection’s end, streetwear influences reigned as the bomber jacket appeared in leather along a jersey-cut sweater and other loose-fitting pieces. Bridging the gap between strong sportswear, outerwear and suiting separates, pinstriped numbers rounded out the collection, where Juun.J’s use of draping proved most effective, seamlessly blended the tailored with the whimsical unstructured.
