Tom Ford built his reputation on an overt and unapologetic kind of masculine desire. When Haider Ackermann took the creative reins, the question was whether that charged identity could survive a designer whose instincts run toward something altogether more internal.
For fall 2026, the answer arrives in the form of a collection that trades Ford’s signature bluntness for something harder to pin down and more difficult to forget. Ackermann’s language here is seduction, but the type that requires proximity in lieu of performance.
The clothes that last in memory are the ones that carry two things at once. Nothing captures that tension better than a dark camel double-breasted blazer worn over lace-up leather trousers, the look hovering between a Savile Row appointment and somewhere with considerably different expectations.
Ivory embellished jackets worn open over bare skin push the idea further, finished with fringe scarves that drift. A sequin suit paired with a black turtleneck lets the shimmer become the whole point. Leather gloves appear throughout as a recurring motif, simultaneously formal and loaded with suggestion.
Ackermann has found a version of Tom Ford that retains the house’s eroticism while replacing its certainty with tension, and the result is a menswear collection that rewards attention.
Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2026 Collection
