Season at Ease–Belgian designer Stephan Schneider looks to summers poolside and accentuates the soft side of menswear with his spring/summer 2014 outing. Embracing a relaxed aesthetic, fabrics are draped, several silhouettes elongated and silk employed. While a fantastic brick print decorates tops, jackets maintain a loose boxy shape. For knitwear, the casual essential is afforded a young edge with short sleeves or reinterpreted as a hooded jacket. From tapered trousers to shorts of varying lengths, Stephan Schneider rounds out the season with an effortless approach to leisure.
Opening Sport–Opening Ceremony looks to the country of Korea to inspire their spring/summer 2014 collection. Always looking for a way to modernize the articles found in the typical closet, Opening Ceremony looks to oversize silhouettes and vibrant colors for the season. Utilizing color blocking and Pjagi patchwork, sporty separates come together with a young attitude. Embracing Korea’s national bird, the magpie for the collection’s signature print, everything from parkas to swim shorts; the label’s first, is adorned. Complete with Opening Ceremony’s first try at sneakers, the collection easily charms. / Photos by Colin Dodgson. Styling by Brian Molloy.
At Home–Christophe Lemaire looks to the easy spirit of the season for a clean crisp collection unmarred by a constant sea of changing trends. Looking to bright colors to breathe life into an everyday wardrobe of casual elegance, light silhouettes are blended with voluminous shapes. While Seijun Suzuki’s gangsters of the 1960s inspire midnight blue ensembles, the photography of Luigi Ghirri in contrast, translates into soft colors that mirror a warm summer vacation.
Remains of Muted Beliefs Pt. II–Bringing his dark vision to Paris Fashion Week, Belgian designer Cedric Jacquemyn was inspired by the disappearing culture of the ancient Amazon. Concentrating around light spring layers and the idea of survival, lean silhouettes of silk, cashmere, linen and wool were left with raw hems exposed and loose draping. Looking to fellow Belgian label ROMBAUT for footwear, the brand’s ecological footwear made the ultimate statement in coated Amazon latex.
The Bathtub Observer–Continuing his longstanding fascination with prints, Henrik Vibskov stimulates our eyes with a new collection inspired by “visual disorders and dysfunctions.” Enlarging not only prints but proportions, oversize shapes play into Vibskov’s 3D world. Among baggy suits and elongated tops, neoprene and contrasting tapes add disorder. Meanwhile on the graphic side, Indian cotton with hand printed dots is combined with magnified herringbone, patchwork and knitted patterns for the designer’s eccentric spin on the dysfunctional.
Rated Fun–Fresh off their presentation during Paris Fashion Week, Japanese fashion brand Sacai unveils their spring/summer 2014 look book photographed by Katsuhide Morimoto (Little Friends). A sporty collection with pumped up volumes, soft colors and vertical stripes enter the season’s design palette, guaranteeing a fun outing. Lending blazers a cheeky outlook, large piping aids the mainstay in complementing flower covered separates, oversize outerwear and drawstring pants.