Stylish Haze–Referencing the stylish ease of the 1970s, British designer Paul Smith embraces unexpected hues of fuchsia and yellow for his spring/summer 2014 collection. On a mushroom trip, noted by cheeky graphics on sweatshirts, the man of Paul Smith is an easy vision in a wardrobe that adopts a color blocking motif, leaving shapes askew. Still a smart vision as always, sharp lines are executed, resulting in a range of tailored sports blazers, cropped jackets, long coats and more.
I-Cowboy–Costume National Homme designer Ennio Capasa looks to his interpretation of the urban cowboy for the label’s spring/summer 2014 show. Embracing “minimal chic and rock ‘n’ roll” to the sound of “Johnny Cash playing Depeche Mode, the collection has a visual impact while showcasing easy fashions in white, black, navy and more. For fabrics, wool, jersey and leather comes together with a play on textures and finishes, imposing an innovative spin on traditional uses. Mixing tailoring with a young edge, cuts are slim as Capasa employs fringes and metals tips at the neck, raw edge nappa inserts and raw edge crossings among other details for a contemporary take on the west.
WhyNot–Coming in at nearly two hundred models strong, Milano agency WhyNot is ready for Milan Fashion Week for the spring/summer 2014 season. This season, WhyNot’s roster includes seasoned veterans Arthur Kulkov, Adam Senn, runway regulars Aiden Andrews, Bastian Thiery, Jacob Coupe, breakout stars Jarrod Scott, Duncan Pyke and countless others.
Backstage at Chai–Richard Chai’s fall/winter 2013 show may have been somber with a strong military theme but backstage was another story. Capturing an upbeat laid-back mood, photographer Nikolai De Vera was on hand for the fall showing.
Toeing the Line–Citing Italo Calvino’s If on a Winter’s Night a Traveler as a reference for the season, Siki Im took a dark turn for his latest showing. A novel of many stories interrupted by the reader, Calvino’s work inspires Im in pursuing a somber hued collection, fragmented by the individual piece, exploring several cuts and finishes. Blending structured elements with more draped silhouettes, coats, wraps, trousers and jackets toe the line between classic and modernist, resulting in a strong showing with a practical heart, boasting pieces for the conservative eye as well as the more trendy.
When No One’s Looking–Public School embraces deconstruction and reconstruction for the fall/winter 2013 season, highlighting a collection of pieces that break the fundamentals down to their core before building them back up in a sleek reinterpreted fashion. Built with a dark modern edge, Public School co-founder Dao-Yi Chow’s collection places the emphasis on fabrics with wool blended knits, contrasted insets, stretch skins and more for a sharp silhouette that packs a distinct personality.