Tailored Cricket–Approaching his spring/summer 2014 collection for Moncler Gamme Bleu, American designer Thom Browne turns to the sport of cricket for inspiration. Letting cricket gear serve as the motivation behind jackets and trousers with quilted padding, Browne also employs more tailored pieces including sport coats, trenches and Chesterfield coats. For fabrication, a light but luxe summer is kept in mind with oxford cloth, cotton jersey, lightweight wool and cashmere. Rounding out the range with shoes furnished in cotton canvas and nubuck, Browne brings his inspiration full circle.
Searching for a Hero–Kean Etro looks to masked outlaw Zorro as muse for the spring/summer 2014 season. Embracing Spanish colonial imagery, Etro’s prints are taken west for a thrilling outing. Used as trim, prints outline details on jackets, shirts and more, putting the focus on the collection’s duotone pants. Showcased against Zorro black, bright colors erupt two-button suits, dress shirts and scarves. Bringing a certain romanticism to the season, the allure of Etro’s motif is translated in everything from the collection’s decorated leather outerwear to pointed boots fit for a hero.
Drawing Fashion–If Mad Men character Don Draper had a modern incarnation, Bottega Veneta’s spring/summer 2014 collection would be right up his alley. Crafting a collection for today’s professional with a retro inspiration, Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier began today’s show with choice gray suit numbers, highlighting a slim fit and graphic accents to mirror the tailor. Continuing the show with drawn on elements, polo shirts, cardigans and sweaters reinforced a smart man of leisure, towing the line between reserved and colorful. Rounding out the collection with black & white checks drawn to different proportions, Maier gave his man sleek options for a stylish season perspective.
Rock On–With the American designer looking up to bands like The Rolling Stones with singers such as Mick Jagger, it’s easy to see John Varvatos’ inspiration for the spring/summer 2014 season. Painting a stark pictures with navy, black and gray, the suit juxtaposed with sportswear is the starting point for the collection. Here, jackets are lengthened, ties clipped into place, prints applied to cardigans and scarves used to accessorize for Varvatos’ free spirit. Incorporating leather and suede for a rich but cool option, outerwear is fitted while trousers are cut slim and pleated. After a splash of red and white for a color uplift, the sergeant jacket is enlisted for a nostalgic rock moment and strong season finish.
WhyNot–Coming in at nearly two hundred models strong, Milano agency WhyNot is ready for Milan Fashion Week for the spring/summer 2014 season. This season, WhyNot’s roster includes seasoned veterans Arthur Kulkov, Adam Senn, runway regulars Aiden Andrews, Bastian Thiery, Jacob Coupe, breakout stars Jarrod Scott, Duncan Pyke and countless others.
Spirit Tailoring–Carlos Campos champions the free spirit for his fall/winter 2013 collection, connecting with the progressive ideas of the 1960s. Looking to student protests, the clean slim lines of Campos are met symbols of bicycles to represent the boycott of public transportation in Argentina or the campaign by bike to heal South America. Dressed in rich dark hues, the man of Carlos Campos takes a retro turn with charming prints and a smart approach to daily dress with tailored suits and the occasional leather jacket thrown in for good measure. / Photos by Marko Kalfa.