Fall/Winter 2014 Trends–Now that the key pieces for Spring/Summer have arrived in stores, it’s time to look ahead to what’s next. Sharp monochrome patterns, sophisticated sportswear and earthy influences are all set to make an appearance next season, so we’ve highlighted the five trends you need to know about.
Designers have taken a ‘more is more’ approach to practicality, oversizing roll necks and adding fur to coat collars. That meant alpine hoods at Christopher Raeburn and sweaters that threatened to completely envelope the models at Ami. Acne Studios offered the most streamlined approach, but even there the silhouette was still exaggerated at the neckline.
A muted colour palette – caramel, charcoal and slate – keeps all emphasis on the rich textiles, with shearling, cashmere and chunky knits all piled up at once. Calvin Klein Collection showed full-on tonal looks for the brave, where padded jackets were shrugged on over matching shirts, knits, trousers and gloves.
The power of monochrome never truly disappears, but for Fall/Winter 2014 it’s been reimagined with a sharper, more experimental edge. Optical illusions appeared at Alexander McQueen and Givenchy, with contoured lines that added depth to even the simplest of garments, while 3.1 Phillip Lim used diagonals to play with the eye.
Simpler stripes and chequerboard patterns looked as if they had been etched into shirts by Agi & Sam and DKNY, but there was still a feeling of severity to them. The purity of monochrome was left undisturbed, with designers resisting any urge to add colour.
Rustic influences were rife on the Fall/Winter runways, from tapestry-style coats at Etro to 3.1 Phillip Lim’s cowboy references. At Burberry Prorsum models were draped in artisan blankets, while oversized plaid made a return at both MSGM and Billy Reid. Even Saint Laurent made a concession to the earthy mood, showing a shearling collar jacket and checked scarf combination that was reminiscent of James Dean.
But forget any thought of folksy arts and crafts: this was a seriously luxe take on bohemia with a high-end, hand-crafted feel. A simple fisherman’s sweater at Kenzo becomes more complicated the longer you look at it, while autumnal colours bridge the gap between old and new.
Classic tailoring and deep indigo: unrevolutionary by themselves, but an unexpected hit when combined for the new season. A range of designers who don’t often show much in common all employed indigo as a head-to-toe shade, layering traditional suit jackets over lightweight tees or matching shirts. At Jil Sander that meant stiff, shimmering finishes, while A.P.C. offered rich folds of wool and cashmere. Most shows left the new navy undiluted, but at Lanvin there was a sliver of pink to highlight its depth.
Designers brought their A-game to the sportswear trend for Fall/Winter, marrying athletic shapes with sophisticated fabrics. Givenchy’s basketball-inspired vests, worn under a layer of mesh, were the most obvious reference, but glossy finishes came into play across the John Galliano, Calvin Klein Collection and Iceberg shows.
The parka emerged as a key piece, whether patterned at Acne Studios or boxy at Christopher Kane, reimagined with unexpected texture. It’s this attention to detail – quilted fabrics, luminous shine, discreet hardware – that brings something new to the sportswear trend, leaving the more familiar go-faster stripes and neoprene behind.